Dealing With a Car Salesman

[Almond_Joy]

Hi everyone,

 

I'm planning to purchase a used car from a dealership this weekend. I spoke to the salesman over the phone early in the week. He got me approved for financing and quoted a down payment and monthly payment that I can afford.

 

The car is only a few years old, and when I came across it online it was about 1K below average market value. Its got over 50K miles on it, so I figured that was why. I made a point to send the salesman the link to that particular car and confirm that's the one I was test driving as it was the lowest priced one and I didn't want any misunderstandings.

 

Today I went to look at the listing and the price has been reduced another 1K.

 

Is this normal? I've never dealt with a dealership, so I don't know what this could mean. I kind of get still having the car listed online because I haven't actually signed anything yet. But why drop the price suddenly and by so much? It makes me think there's something very wrong with the car. It's cert pre-owned so there will be inspection records, but I almost want to take a mechanic with me to the dealership to check the car out before I sign anything.

 

I also don't want to accuse the salesman of anything yet. The dealership and the salesman personally have great recommendations and I want to believe everything's on the up and up, but that just seems really wierd.

 

Should I ask him or just go to the test drive by myself and trust everything's as agreed?

 

Look forward to any feedback, thanks.

[preraph]

I used to sell cars. Used cars at the dealerships have a pretty wide margin as they pay very little for them at auction or taking them in trade. Sounds to me they just want to sell you the car. But here's what I do before I buy a used car, and they should cooperate with you. Go in and sign their little contract that says if everything checks out and financing is reasonable, you will purchase the car IF they will let you take it for the day to your mechanic and let him put it up on the rack and give it a quick once-over. Now, that won't find nearly all issues, but if it's leaking like a seive or has something damaged under there, they'll see that.

 

Where I worked, they would give you a payment quote that was virtually worthless before you actually sat down with the financier and worked up the real numbers. So just keep in mind that depending on what they find when they dig into not just your Beacon but your other credit reports may make the interest go up. Also, they will try to sell you extras that when financed will usually be at a higher rate than what the car loan is. Also, remember if you have to finance the tax, title and license, the rate for doing that is way higher than for a car loan as there is no collateral -- so always best to have enough cash to cover the TT&L. You can find out what that is pretty close just by asking them up front.

 

Just read everything and don't take every extra they try to sell you. They wil try to just let you see the final payment number, but make them break it down and tell you the interest rate.

 

Going in with a down payment is by far the best way to go, always. And if you have good credit, which is, frankly, very rare to see, you may do better borrowing from your bank, but the dealership will make profit on you one way or the other. If you finance it yourself, the selling price will be higher. If you finance through them, they will drop the selling price some. Good luck.

[Tayla]

Get a car fax report.

 

Get a bumper to bumper warranty at no extra cost increase.

 

Veer away from any document that states "As IS".

 

I had my dealer toss in 6 oil changes and the first two inspections required by my state to be done at no charge.

 

Sometimes they won't budge on certain pricing, but there is always ways to retain a customer thru "giveme's".

 

And remember, If the deal is not in your true target budget, walk away.

[TimmyC]

Research dear! Do your research on the car.

 

I was at a dealer shopping for my dream car (2006 Mazda RX8)

I've always been a fan of the rotary type engines.

 

 

The dealer kept saying "it's only got 120,000 miles on it." For a normal car with a piston engine that's great...but for a rotary that's like waking up in a failed marrige!!! One day he/she is going to divorce you. What saved my skin was that I knew more about the vehicle than he did. I asked if I could start it, It had a very weak idle. At this point he offered to sell the car for $5500 from the original 8k he wanted. Then I did the big test, I let her warm up and shut down the engine, The car wouldn't crank back up until 15 minutes passed. This is a sign that the rotary engine is on its last leg, every 150k miles the engine must be rebuilt, had I of cashed in the chips right then and there, I would have had a $8000 paperweight!!

 

Read the reviews of the place and check the Carfax. They could have identified a issue with the car that could need major servicing later.

[preraph]

I would add that if the dealer hasn't already done it for you and hasn't shown it to you, you should spend the $25 or whatever it is now on a CARFAX report on the vehicle. The main thing you're looking for is whether it has ever been in a major accident, i.e. totalled or where it had frame damage or engine block damage. Every car has had a fender bender. It's when you get into the frame and engine that is normally can cause bigger problems. CARFAX isn't perfect, but it's better than no info. Also, look at the oil stick. If there's stuff crusted on there and it looks all burnt(even though the oil is fresh now), it may mean the car has gone without oil changes for some time. Of course, they may have replaced the stick, but I doubt it. That costs money. They tend to rehab used cars with stuff that is cosmetic or cheap.